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EAST SUMBAN VILLAGES |
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The villages of eastern Sumba have made small concessions to
modernity, now sporting rusty metal roofs on their houses and using
concrete to build their tombs. Most of these villages are used to
visitors and will request around Rp1000 as a "signing-in fee". East of
Waingapu, and just before the larger town of Melolo, are PAU and UMBARA
. Pau, though tiny, is actually an independent kingdom with its own
rajah, an interesting character who is very knowledgeable about Sumba
and its traditions. Umbara has a few thatched-roof houses. Buses from
Waingapu to Melolo (Rp3000) run until late afternoon and you can ask the
driver to stop at Pau or Umbara.
MELOLO , 62km from Waingapu, has three high-roofed houses and a few
crudely carved tombs as well as a clean and friendly losmen (under $5).
The next major settlement as you head east is RENDE . Here the house
roofs are all made from tin, but are nevertheless spectacular, and
doorways are adorned with huge buffalo horns. Rende is also the site of
the finest tombs in East Sumba, huge flat slabs topped by animal
carvings. There are buses every couple of hours direct to Rende from
Waingapu (Rp3500), and occasional trucks; otherwise, catch a bus to
Melolo and one of the regular bemos, buses or trucks from there.
About 40km out of Waingapu on the road west to Waikabubak, a turn-off
leads down to TARIMBANG on the south coast. Here the Martin Homestay
(under $5 full board), with its rooms fashioned to resemble Sumbanese
clan houses, caters for surfers and those looking for quiet beaches and
a bit of relaxation.
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