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GETTING AROUND |
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Delays are common to all forms of transport - including major
flights - caused by weather, mechanical failure, or simply not enough
passengers turning up, so you'll save yourself a good deal of stress if
you keep your schedule as flexible as possible.
Buses and minibuses
Buses are cheap, easy to book and leave roughly on time. But they're
also slow, cramped and often plain terrifying: accidents can be
devastating. Where there's a choice of operators on any particular route,
ask local people which bus company they recommend. Tickets are sold a
day or more in advance from the point of departure or bus company
offices - which are not necessarily near the relevant bus station (
terminal). Where services are infrequent it's a good idea to buy tickets
as early as possible. Tell the driver your exact destination, as it may
be possible to get delivered right to the door of your hotel. The
average long-distance bus has padded seats but little leg- or headroom;
it's worth forking out for a luxury bus, if available, which costs twice
as much but will have reclining seats. You'll get regular meal stops at
roadhouses along the way. On shorter routes you'll use minibuses, widely
known by their Balinese tag, bemo , along with kijang , a jeep lookalike.
Once on their way they are faster than buses and cheaper; fares are
handed over on board, and rarely advertised. You may also have to pay
for any space your luggage occupies. In resort areas such as Bali, a
more pleasant option are tourist shuttle buses - though far more
expensive than local services, these will take you between points as
quickly as possible. The longest established firm on Bali and Lombok is
Perama . They have offices in most major tourist destinations and
produce a useful leaflet outlining their routes.
Planes
In some areas, flying may be the only practical way to get around. State-operated
Garuda handles international flights (though you might use them for
transport within Indonesia), and Merpati is the domestic operator.
Provincial services are supplemented by Mandala and Bouraq . The
quantity and quality of services is very uncertain at present, however,
and some marginal routes have closed. It's essential to reconfirm your
seat, as waiting lists can be huge and the temptation for airline staff
to bump you off in favour of a benefactor is enormous; get a computer
printout of the reconfirmation if possible. Arrive at the airport early
, as seats on overbooked flights are allocated on a first-come, first-served
basis. At other times, "fully booked" planes can be almost empty, so if
you really have to get somewhere it's always worth going to the airport
to check.
Boats and ferries
Most Indonesians choose to travel between islands by boat, either on the
state shipping line, Pelni, or on anything from cargo freighters to tiny
fishing vessels. Pelni currently operates about twenty passenger liners
, which run on two-week or monthly circuits and link Java with ports on
all the main island groups between Sumatra and Irian Jaya .
The vessels carry 500 to 1600 passengers each, are well maintained, as
safe and punctual as any form of transport in Indonesia can be, and the
only widespread form of public transport that offers any luxury.
Comprehensive timetables for the whole country can be picked up from
their head office in Jakarta; provincial offices should have complete
timetables of all the ferries serving their ports, which you can copy or
take away. Tickets are available from Pelni offices three days before
departure, but as there's a big demand for cabin berths it's best to pay
an agent to reserve you these as early as possible. You can only buy
tickets for services which depart locally.
Accommodation on board is usually divided into two or four classes. All
are good value, and include meals ; cabins also have large lockers to
store your luggage. First class consists of a private cabin with a
double bed, washroom, TV and air-conditioning - about US$15 a day is
standard. Second class is similar, but with four bunks and no TV (US$10);
third class is a six-bunk cabin without the washroom (US$7.50); and
fourth class is just a bed in a dorm (US$5). If the fourth class is
full, which it usually is, then the only option is to sleep in the
corridors, stairwells or on deck; if you plan to travel in this class,
it's a good idea to buy a rattan mat before boarding to sit/lie on, and
get to the port early to stake out your spot on the floor. Lock luggage
shut and chain it to something immovable. Fourth-class food is edible at
best, so stock up in advance with instant noodles and biscuits. It's
always possible to upgrade after boarding, if space is available.
Where Pelni don't venture, you'll find that Perentis (Pioneer)
freighters do, along with numerous local craft. While these are always
willing to rent deck space to passengers for next to nothing - say US$1
for 24 hours - comfort and privacy aboard will be nonexistent. Bring
your own sleeping mat, drinking water and snacks, though you may be able
to buy rice and fish heads on board. Guard your gear and don't flash
anything around. Schedules for these services are posted at ports.
Rental vehicles
Local operators offer a range of cars , most frequently 800cc Suzuki
Jimneys (US$25 per day), and larger, more comfortable jeep-like 1600cc
Toyota Kijangs (US$40). The rates drop if you rent for a week or more;
one day means twelve hours, and the above prices exclude fuel. You'll
need to produce an international drivers' licence before you rent.
Rental motorbikes vary from small 100cc Yamahas to trail bikes. Prices
start at US$5 per day without insurance. If you don't have a valid
international motorbike licence , you may be able to get one by taking a
test (Rp100,000). Conditions are not suitable for inexperienced drivers,
with heavy traffic on major routes; there are increasing numbers of
accidents involving tourists, so don't take risks. A few rental outfits
offer insurance for an extra US$5 a day for a car and US$3 for a
motorbike. Before you take a vehicle, check it thoroughly, and get
something in writing about any existing damage.
Traffic in Indonesia drives on the left and there is a maximum speed
limit of 70kmph. Fuel costs Rp1000 a litre. Drivers must always carry an
international driving licence and the vehicle registration documents.
All motorcyclists must wear a helmet . In some places certain roads
change from two-way to one-way during the day, not publicized in any way
that is comprehensible to foreigners. The police carry out regular spot
checks and you'll be fined for any infringements.
Urban transport
In cities, colour-coded or numbered minibus bemos might run fixed
circuits, or adapt their routes according to their customers. Rides
usually cost a few hundred rupiah, but fares are never displayed, and
you'll get overcharged at first. Other standbys include ojek (single-passenger
motorbikes) and becak (cycle-rickshaws), which take two passengers.
Jakarta and Banjarmasin also have motorized becak, called bajaj .
Negotiating fares for these vehicles requires a balance of firmness and
tact; try for around Rp1000 for ojek and Rp500 a kilometre for bajaj or
becak, though you'll have to pay more for the latter if there are any
hills along the way. They are also notoriously tough customers - never
lose your temper with one unless you want a serious fight. |
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