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KLUNGKUNG |
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The bustling trading town of KLUNGKUNG (also known as Semarapura) is
of most interest for the remains of its royal palace, collectively known
as the Taman Gili (daily 7am-5.30pm; Rp2000), which stands at the
central crossroads and is entered via Jalan Puputan. The Semarapura
palace was built around 1710 by the Klungkung rulers, but was largely
destroyed in 1908, when the dewa agung (literally "Great God", the title
of kings of Bali) and his court committed puputan (ritual suicide) by
marching unarmed into invading Dutch guns rather than submit to foreign
rule. Little now remains of the palace, save for a massive red-brick
gateway, and the Kerta Gosa , an open pavilion on a raised platform,
where the king and his ministers probably met and debated. The
pavilion's painted ceiling is a unique example of the Kamasan style of
classical wayang painting - strictly two-dimensional, painted with a
limited palette and with all figures in three-quarter profile. Nine
levels of pictures each describes a specific theme or story. Level one,
nearest the floor, shows scenes from the Tantri stories; levels two and
three illustrate the Bhima Swarga story from the Mahabharata, which is
continued in levels six and seven; level five predicts the effects of
earthquakes on life and agriculture; and level nine, right at the top of
the ceiling, shows a lotus surrounded by four doves symbolizing good
luck, enlightenment and salvation. The Bale Kambung (Floating Pavilion),
almost beside the Kerta Gosa and surrounded by a moat, was the venue for
royal tooth-filing ceremonies. Its ceiling is less famous than its
neighbour's, but equally interesting. The six levels of paintings cover
Balinese astrology, the tales of Pan Brayut (a legendary Balinese figure
who produced scores of children) and, closest to the top, the adventures
of Satusoma, a Buddhist saint adopted into a Hindu context. The Museum
Daerah Semarapura in the Taman Gili grounds, houses kris, textiles, and
an old royal palanquin.
The main bus and bemo terminal , Terminal Kelod, is a fair distance
south of the town centre; most public transport stops here. In addition,
there is a small terminal just north of the main crossroads, slightly
hidden away off Jalan Gunung Rinjani, where bemos depart for Besakih and
Padang Bai. Most people prefer to stay in Candi Dasa and visit Klungkung
as a day-trip, but the Loji Ramayana (tel 0366/21044; under $5), about
500m from the town centre on the road leading down the hill out of town
towards Candi Dasa, has simple, clean rooms set back from the road in a
courtyard with a small restaurant. If you are really counting the rupiah
you might like to consider the Cahaya Pusaka (tel 0366/22118; under $5),
slightly closer to the centre of town, on the opposite side of the road
but rooms are closer to the main road.
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