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PUTUSSIBAU |
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A further 412km east of Sintang, the ramshackle little frontier town
of PUTUSSIBAU is situated at the point where the Sungai Sibau empties
into the Kapuas, and serves as an important base for exploration of the
interior. There are also a couple of Iban longhouses just a few
kilometres upriver from Putussibau that still retain a fairly
traditional lifestyle, though they have been receiving tourists for
years. The Melapi I longhouse and the Sayut are said to be the most
impressive. Boat owners will approach you offering a guided tour of four
or five longhouses: Rp50,000 for a day-trip, plus Rp20,000 if you want
to stay the night - don't forget to bring presents, and remember that
Iban etiquette dictates that you should only enter the longhouse when
invited.
Much of Putussibau, including most of the market, stands on stilts on
the riverbank. There are a couple of hotels here, including the Gautama
floating hotel (under $5), where you'll gain an insight into the daily
life of the itinerant market traders, fishermen and prostitutes, but
don't expect much comfort or privacy. Overlooking the Gautama, the Aman
Sentosa on Jalan Diponegoro (tel 0567/21533; under $5) is more
conventional and comfortable. The centrally located Marissa Hotel (under
$5) also has decent rooms.
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