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WAINGAPU |
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It may be the largest port and town on Sumba, but WAINGAPU is still
far from a modern metropolis. Pigs and chickens roam the backstreets and
locals still walk around barefoot, with ikat tied around their heads and
waists. One half of the hourglass-shaped town is centred around the port,
and the other around the bus terminal. It's only a fifteen-minute walk
between the two, but an endless army of bemos do the circular trip
(Rp500). The bay to the west of town has a harbour at the extreme
northern point of either shore: the eastern harbour serves ferries and
is right at the foot of the town, the western harbour is for larger
ships and requires an eight-kilometre journey all around the bay.
PRAILU is the most visited of the local ikat-weaving villages , just a
ten-minute bemo hop away. After signing in at the large, traditional
house (Rp1000), you can inspect weavings that weren't good enough to be
bought by the traders. The ikat blankets of East Sumba are ablaze with
symbolic dragons, animals, gods and headhunting images. The cloth worn
by men is called the hinggi , and is made from two identical panels sewn
together into a symmetrical blanket. One is worn around the waist and
another draped across one shoulder. These are the most popular souvenirs,
as they make great wall-hangings. Most pieces retailing at under US$100
will use a campur (mix) of traditional vegetable dyes and manufactured
chemical dyes. Many cloths under US$50 will use only chemical dye. A
tight weave, clean precise motifs and sharp edges between different
colours are all signs of a good piece. Dealers in the towns will often
give you better prices than those in the villages.
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